Saturday, May 30, 2009
Chimbulak Mountains
Today began with a delicious hot breakfast of fresh cream of wheat. It tastes completely different than the kind back home, probably because the wheat is so fresh and the milk is unpasteurized. Right after that Timur, his father and I drove through Almaty up to the snow-peaked Chimbulak mountains.
This is one of Almaty's treasures; these grand, snow-peaked picturesque mountains that surround the city like one of nature's fortress'.
We drove all the way up and reached a well-known ski resort, for it's ski lift, and purchased tickets for the ride. I knew the view would be worth it, but once we were sitting in it my nerves kicked in and it began to feel like a mild roller coaster. Thankfully, Timur's father used his psychiatry on me and calmed me down. I shot quite a bit of footage and think some of it might be good.
This was really my first sight-seeing trip of Almaty because for the past 2 days we've been indoors with the National Folk Orchestra conducting individual workshops and meeting each player. There are so many interesting instruments that are just not known in the West. There's even a harp-like instrument that was restored after a few hundred years and now has its first player who is in the orchestra as well.
The workshops have gone really well and Monday we're going o have our first big rehearsal with the entire orchestra and the conductor. I've been working on questions to interview a lot of the key players. Monday will be busy because right after the rehearsal is my screening.
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Day #1 Kazakhstan
After 3 hours of trying to rest we had to attend our 1st meeting. It was at KIMEP, a well-known university here in Almaty, for a showcase of my films. They are going to screen over 1 hour of my films in their Great Hall this Monday, June 1st at 6:30pm.
There were several faculty and the Director of Student Affairs, etc waiting to greet us and show us their different screening halls.
Timur is going to present the event and host the Q&A with me. The Great Hall sits over 600 people, so the space is huge and still somewhat old with decor so I think it's beautiful. They use it for graduation, which explain the image of it I posted.
The school is sending out a lot of publicity for it as well as our project's producer, Yelena,
(who I met for the first time at the meeting yesterday.) She is a perfect producer and is doing so much work. Right after the meeting she had an appointment scheduled with the travel agency for our trip into the outskirts of the city planned for next week. This travel agency specializes in the most picturesque locations in the country and we will have our own driver so I can shoot as much and long as is needed.
Anne LeBaron arrived a bit later, but we haven't seen her yet because both Timur an I couldn't stay awake for much longer. We both fell asleep until now.
So far this experience has been an experience. Almaty is unlike any other place I've ever been too. You can definitely feel both the Soviet and Asian influence. The people here have been very kind and from what I can gather this society functions a lot on trust.
You see all kinds of people, from students to grandma's on the side of the road hitchhiking everywhere. This is common practice, we even did it a few times yesterday and 1 time 2 young students picked us up. You agree on a price at first and then get into the car.
Day #1 Traveling to Kazakhstan
I got a taste of what to expect, as far as the way things are run, while at the LAX airport trying to get my ticket from Russian airlines Aeroflot. Technically, any traveller can fly into Moscow and transfer to a different plane as long as they don't leave the airport. Well at the check-in desk they decided that I needed to have a transit visa, so the only way they would let me through is if the luggage was sent under Timur's name, but that would cost $335 because of the big favor. (They tried to justify it based on weight, but I couldn't follow any logic in it.) Well, this caused a huge argument with the manager and several employees. From what I gathered, none of this would have happened if I continued flying on their airline all the way to Kazakhstan or had gotten my ticket from a travel agent. Timur had no problems, since Kazakhstan (former USSR) gives his free access to Russia without any Visa. We eventually found a loophole: paying for extra overweight baggage, which ended up costing $54. One of the attendants spoke Spanish so I spoke with her honestly about the absurd situation and she helped as much as she could.
The flight was awful, but survivable. It was 13 hours long, 2 bad airplane meals, breakfast was a candy bar and plane tv's were broken, so no form of entertainment. Someone went into the bathroom and smoked, so we all had to sit when we finally landed so that some medical guy could point a tobacco detector into each of our faces. I think I was the only American on his plane. The flight attendants all spoke to me in Russian and couldn't understand any English.
Then we arrive in Moscow. The airport had some bright orange Soviet architecture with it's bold san-serifs cyrillic fonts, completely Russian Constructivist feeling- I loved seeing this. We got off and after two safety inspections go looking for a monitor that tells us where the Air Astana terminal is. We walked around for 30 minutes and only found an attendant at a desk, who only spoke Russian. She told Timur to walk to the next hallway of doors and go into the room with the gold handle. Yes-- this obscure! So we find the door, which has no sign and go into it. The room looks like a waiting room with a reception desk, still no signs, and the ladies there check us in for Air Astana. They were very kind and attempted to say "Hello" in english to me. This was the first attempt of communication I'd gotten from anyone all day, so I immediately decided Kazakhstan ppl are nice and I like them. (Yes, my mid needed to create this determination for sanity sake.)
Air Astana was a wonderful flight, with delicious food and snacks, entertainment, hot towels, eye masks, kind stewardesses, kind ppl sitting next to us-- reminded me on flying LAN in South America.
We got off the plane and went to get our luggage. The security guy took me aside because of my bolex. He couldn't understand me so Timur came in to find out what he wanted. He assumed that the camera was an antique that I was going to sell to someone in Kzakhstan, Timur explained t him that it was mine and not for sale and would be traveling back to the U.S.A. with me. We finally got out of the airport, Wednesday 5 am after leaving from L.A. on Monday at 6pm.
The flight was awful, but survivable. It was 13 hours long, 2 bad airplane meals, breakfast was a candy bar and plane tv's were broken, so no form of entertainment. Someone went into the bathroom and smoked, so we all had to sit when we finally landed so that some medical guy could point a tobacco detector into each of our faces. I think I was the only American on his plane. The flight attendants all spoke to me in Russian and couldn't understand any English.
Then we arrive in Moscow. The airport had some bright orange Soviet architecture with it's bold san-serifs cyrillic fonts, completely Russian Constructivist feeling- I loved seeing this. We got off and after two safety inspections go looking for a monitor that tells us where the Air Astana terminal is. We walked around for 30 minutes and only found an attendant at a desk, who only spoke Russian. She told Timur to walk to the next hallway of doors and go into the room with the gold handle. Yes-- this obscure! So we find the door, which has no sign and go into it. The room looks like a waiting room with a reception desk, still no signs, and the ladies there check us in for Air Astana. They were very kind and attempted to say "Hello" in english to me. This was the first attempt of communication I'd gotten from anyone all day, so I immediately decided Kazakhstan ppl are nice and I like them. (Yes, my mid needed to create this determination for sanity sake.)
Air Astana was a wonderful flight, with delicious food and snacks, entertainment, hot towels, eye masks, kind stewardesses, kind ppl sitting next to us-- reminded me on flying LAN in South America.
We got off the plane and went to get our luggage. The security guy took me aside because of my bolex. He couldn't understand me so Timur came in to find out what he wanted. He assumed that the camera was an antique that I was going to sell to someone in Kzakhstan, Timur explained t him that it was mine and not for sale and would be traveling back to the U.S.A. with me. We finally got out of the airport, Wednesday 5 am after leaving from L.A. on Monday at 6pm.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Monday, May 18, 2009
Sanatorium
So it looks like a trip to China might have to be postponed because Timur got called into a production in Bali and he needs to leave to it immediately after our trip. He suggested that we stay in Kazakhstan and go to a Sanatorium. Yes, yes my first impression was also: a psychiatric ward??? And actually, it turns out that in the former Soviet Union the term has a slightly different meaning. It is mostly a combination of a resort/recreational facility and a medical facility intended to provide short-term complex rest and medical services, thus it is common to a spa resort.
Here is 1 I found:http://www.birkolik.kz/eng/
It's called “Birkolik” Sanatorium-preventorium and it's in South Kazakhstan. Their medical treatment includes mud therapy, balneotherapy (baths w/ different kinds of salts and minerals), hydrotherapy and remedial gymnastics, massage, etc.
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